Traveling in Lebanon

St. Charbel’s Monastery & Shrine

Ajata and Virginia visited St. Charbel’s shrine on Palm Sunday, then climbed the hill to see the cave where St. Charbel had  
also prayed regularly.

This cave has been incorporated into a small hermitage which for Palm Sunday overflowed so that the congregation spread  
onto the outside courtyard overlooking snow covered peaks. The mass was conducted by both a priest and a women  
reading passages of scripture. (This style of mass we also found at the Church in Byblos mentioned below.)

See all photos of the St. Charbel Shrine: EmbraceSacredPlaces.Org


Later on Palm Sunday the Embrace Founders went to “Old” Byblos and happened upon two beautiful churches with a  
grass lawn and gardens between. Congregants were having refreshments and talking while music came alternately from  
one church and then the other, sometimes a solo singer, sometimes a guitar and sometimes a chorus. When all mass and  
music were finished a parade with flags proceeded through the cobbled streets.

Byblos also has ruins which have attracted tourists for decades.


Tyre has extensive ancient ruins and ocean views. Most importantly everyone in the city is trying to rebuild together and  
design a downtown that will be quite captivating once totally completed. Even now it has quite a charm.


Beirut is a walking city. It has an extensive and fast bus system, and good natured bus drivers, but with all there is to see in  
Beirut - visitors will be compelled to investigate a lot from street level. You can walk for hours on the Corniche (a widely  
paved sidewalk) along the ocean through different neighborhoods for miles. The reconstruction of the downtown district is  
exceptional. It is elegant and built on a human scale with architecture that is classical, comfortable and beautiful. Mosques  
and Churches sit side by side and are woven between flowered landscaping. There are many, many more intriguing  
neighborhoods. There is no where you can not walk safely (at least in the day time.)

We have been greatly heartened to see that Lebanese of all backgrounds are taking their grievances to the common  
ground, for discussion and debate, whether by demonstrating, writing or discussing. There is real dialogue going on and we  
feel that it is only getting better.

Currently there is a small scale disturbance between Syrians of opposing sides of the Syrian conflict living north in Tripoli,  
Lebanon. The Embrace Founders met Syrians of opposing views on the conflict, however the question remains - who  
perpetrated the first shots that instigated the violence? Was it the Syrian army, Libyan mercenaries or intelligence  
operatives seeking to ignite a situation for the benefit of Western interests? Who gains the most by initiating the violence?

Looking towards the future of Beirut and Lebanon, we hope that city planners will be able to stem the growth of high rises in  
Beirut’s small downtown area, utilizing some of Lebanon’s vast creative talent, idealists, artists and conservationists to  
incorporate greenbelts, city parks within “greater” Beirut - and city parks and national parks between Beirut and Byblos.


Within Lebanon there seem to be regular buses and mini vans everywhere. Ajata and Virginia make it a point, while traveling  
to avail themselves as often as possible with public transportation. There are also taxis. To get to St. Charbel requires a  
bus trip to Byblos and a mini van from Byblos (they are frequent & easy to catch) up the mountains.
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